Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Saturday September 15, 2007 Vintages Release


In this release Vintages is rolling out close to 20 Ontario wines in their annual Ontario feature. Being that some of the reviews of these can be found on my website (www.ontariowinereview.com) or in the magazine itself (3 to be exact) I’ll let you look them up. I am also a proponent of visiting the wineries themselves to experience and purchase the wines of Ontario first hand – the LCBO to me has always been about the stuff I can’t buy and try in my own backyard. You can check out my reviews of the following wines (that are not already in the magazine) that I whole-heartedly recommend: Chateau des Charmes 2005 Estate Riesling ($16.95 - #277228); Flat Rock Cellars 2006 Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling ($19.95 - #578625). And so with that bit of preamble let’s focus our attention outside the realm of Ontario and onto 23 other wines from other parts of the world.

France (Sparkling) … It’s always good to begin with a little bubbly – this one’s from Alsace, so it’s not Champagne, it’s sparkling wine. It has a toasted-apple nose with slightly peachy and lemony flavours and it is: Jean Geiler Blanc de Blanc Brut Prestige ($21.95 - #957746).

France (White) … Staying in Alsace we find Zind-Humbrecht 2005 Gewurztraminer Wintzenzeim ($35.95 - #918078); the notes in the catalogue says “nuanced aromas” but there is nothing nuanced about this. Monster spiciness and floral (read: rose petal) aromas – the finish is lengthy and what’s on the nose follows through in the mouth. My notes say, “gotta like your Gewurzt spicy and rosy” – and you’d better believe it.

France (Red) … We’ll stay in France for one more wine, but this time we’ll head to the Midi region (Minervois to be exact). A blend of 85/15 Syrah/Grenache, this wine is an excellent value at $14.95: Abbotts Turrilite 2005 (#43042) … red fruit dominated in an easy drinking style. Some vanilla is present and all in all it’s very tasty with a good finish. This one’s chillable (if you like your reds that way) – go ahead try it.

California (White) … Paul Dolan Vineyards 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($19.95 - #46334) – is not at all what you’d expect from Sauv. Blanc. First, it’s soft on the nose with grapefruit and lemon, and there’s nothing in your face about it, just a nice easy sipping wine.

Australia (White) … From a wine with little Sauvignon Blanc characteristics to one with lots, but it’s not a Sauv. Blanc, its Annie’s Lane 2006 Chardonnay ($17.95 - #59105). Fresh and vibrant with a savvy b. like nose of hay, grass and grapefruit … the flavours follow with more grassiness and citrus, and a nice long melon finish.

Australia (Red) … Prepare to be tantalized by Elderton 2005 Tantalus - Shiraz (59%) / Cabernet (28%) / Malbec (8%) / Merlot (5%) – ($16.95 - #721589) … a cherry, raspberry and strawberry nose is followed by a touch of tannins in the mouth and some easy drinking tastiness. Also drinking well is the Richard Hamilton 2005 Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon ($19.95 - #567917) … black fruit and spice driven nose with a slight tarry quality – the palate shows eucalyptus, cassis and other black fruit … and the good news, the tarry disappears after a little while in the glass or open to the air.

New Zealand (White) … Talk about fruity; the Gunn Estate 2006 Unoaked Chardonnay ($17.95 - #694885) is all that and a bag of chips. Melon, pineapple and tree fruit are all get up into the nose … there’s a little butteryness on top of all that fruit in the mouth … tasty.

New Zealand (Red) … The fruitiness from New Zealand continues with this Sileni Cellar Selection 2006 Pinot Noir ($16.95 - #694901) and it’s a good price for a wine that’s come halfway around the world to be on your table. Cherry, cranberry and strawberry aromas and flavours, with a hint of earthy tannins in the mouth.

Germany (White) … (sing along with me now) – “Summer-thyme and the Riesling is easy”; there’s the Lingerfelder 2003 Riesling Spatlese ($21.95 - #928192) a wine right up any German Riesling fans alley. Honeysuckle, apricot and pear greet the nose and all follow through in the mouth with just a touch of petrol … nice balanced sweetness … delicious. The best value in this release just might be the Lingenfelder 2005 Riesling Bird Label ($14.95 - #568634). 2005 was a good year for Riesling in Germany, and this one’s no exception: apple, peach and petrol with good minerality and some ageability. Good finish leads me to believe you should buy a couple, at least, especially at that price. You can sit on this one for another 5-plus years – while still keeping some aside to drink now.

Argentina (Red) … Spicy, peppery with a touch of eucalyptus and mint … good tannin structure, black fruit and cinnamon flavours and some ageablity to boot … all part of my description for this interesting combination of this 2005 Shiraz and Malbec from Dona Paula Estates ($16.95 - #998492) – also note the reasonable price, if you’re considering a multiple purchase – and you should.

Chile (Red) … Two good values also come out of Chile this release: Los Vascos 2004 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($17.95 - #32078) with its chocolate, mint and sweet fruit nose followed up by a wonderful taste with more mintyness and a restrained fruit to wood ratio. The other wine you should consider is Vina Tabali 2005 Carmenere Reserva ($14.95 - #44008); a little more down to earth with black currant, black fruit and smoky notes on the schnoze; the mouth produces lush, beautiful dark fruit that’s juicy and nicely balanced with the tannins and a slightly earthy finish. This is another Chilean bargain.

Italy (Red) … Something a little pricier that will hold for a long, long time: Il Borro Rosso 2004 ($53.95 - #661769) – smooth and lovely now, dark fruit inspired with good tannins to hold it in check for the long haul … if you like deep, dark and tasty then this is your wine.

Portugal (Red) … Here’s a re-issue for Vintages, Sogrape 2003 Callabriga Tinto ($18.95 - #682591) – a nose of chocolate, black fruit and raisins, which follows through in the mouth with lightly stewed flavours – it’s tasty and drinks well now – but could see a few more beneficial years in the cellar.

Spain (Red) …We’ll finish off our look at dry wines in Spain (as usual) I have two tasty deals for you. Bodegas Castano 2004 Hecula ($15.95 - #748999) – this one usually flies off the shelf due to its value for taste. There’s some red fruit and chocolate on the nose with good berry flavours on the tongue that follow through toasty and tasty. Long lasting tannins, which somehow manage to be smooth in the mouth and not overpoweringly woody. A steal at $15.95. Finally, there’s the Prado Rey Roble 2005 ($16.95 - #674465) with its lusciously scented nose of cherry, raspberry, pepper, chocolate and vanilla … the mouth is equally luscious with lots of cherries and some nutmeg … the powerful 14.5% alcohol also sets this one apart from the competition, but never hints at it in the taste.

What’s for DessertAustralia delivers a sweet Moscato from Trentham Estate called La Famiglia ($15.95 - #43938) at only 7.5% it’s light on alcohol but fun with a fruity citrus nose and taste. Enjoy while out on the patio with friends and loved ones. Craving a bit more sweetness, check out Hungary for the Puklus Wine Cellars 2002 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos ($34.95 - #47209) … if you like sweet, but lack the funds for icewine, Tokaji can take over admirably – and in 500ml bottles you get a little more bang for the buck. Apricots, pears, rusty over-ripe fruit, candied and honey-like. Delicious, delectable – a dessert all on its own. Port fans will be glad to see the return of Fonseca Bin 27 Reserve Port ($16.95 - #156877) – dark chocolate, cherry, plumy and raisiny in the background, good tannins are still present and get smoother as you leave it open over the course of a few weeks; try taking a nip very few days. Stock up for those cold winter months ahead – nothing’s better for sitting in front of the fireplace with a good book.

Funky fruit wine comes to Vintages by way of Scotland, with Hutchisons Spiced Ginger Wine ($13.95 - #505636) more of a curiosity, unless you’re a huge ginger fan. The spicy gingerbread house nose is followed by a zapping of the tongue and a stinging in the throat … interesting and unique – but watch out, its got chilies in it.

Houston, we have a winner … Last but certainly not least is the wine I’ll be lining up for come September 15th … or should I say, the Sherry I’ll be fighting you all for. Well worth the $15.95 asking price is the Gonzalez Byass Oloroso Dulce Solera 1847 (#972109) – named that way because GB claims the sherry was started in 1847, so if nothing else you’re drinking a little drop of history here; but put that notion aside as I tell you what history tastes like. The perfect blend of creamy and sweet: orange, caramel, dates, figs, toffee all come through in the mouth along with some almonds and hazelnuts. A deep brown sugar colour, like thick rusty water – not sure whether I want to sell this to you or put you off … that way there’s more for me. My notes have glowing words of recommendation like “stunning, amazing and wonderful” and that all comes from a non-Sherry drinker. This is a must purchase – another for sitting around the fireplace this winter. See you in line.


Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Saturday September 1, 2007 Vintages Release


The release to kick off September features Pinot Noir, in all its forms and tastes from a variety of countries. There is also a mini-release of wines from Austria, 5 whites and two reds. I’ll give you the lowdown on the Pinot Noirs, focus your attention on a couple of Austrian’s you gotta try; and then we’ll check out another 18 wines from around the world.

Pinot Noir … We start this report off by looking at the Heartbreak Grape, so named because the grape itself can break, and has broken, the heart of many a grower, a winemaker or a wine drinker. It’s finicky in the field, tough in the cellar and volatile in the glass; but when you get a good one, supposedly, it’s better than sex (or so I have been told). The granddaddy of all places for Pinot is in Burgundy, France, where the world looks for the best and for comparison (i.e.: how does yours stack up next to a Burgundian Pinot?) Some countries don’t even try to measure up, while others continually try to better the best. So let’s start our look t Pinot there …

First up, I’ll hit you with an absolute stunner, if you’re like me it’ll take a lottery win for you to buy one, but what the heck, best I tell you in case it does happen: Bouchard Volnay Caillerets 1er Cru Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 2005 ($86.95 - #43240), every Pinot should be this good; great red fruit driven – cranberry, strawberry, raspberry with sweet nuances of chocolate – fine tannins, wonderful mouthfeel … a hint of earthiness – I could go on, but I won’t. Suffice it to say if you can pick one up do so. Now that we have that stellar Burgundian out of the way its time to move on to ones that are more affordable. Albert Bichot 2005 Pinot Noir Bourgogne Vielles Vignes ($18.95 - #43331) represents good value for a quality Pinot. Raspberry and licorice on the nose; light cedar and red fruit on the palate – this one’s also chillable; if you dare. Finally, from France, somewhere in-between the two above, we have Pierre Labet 2005 Beaune Clos Du Dessus Des Marconnets ($42.95 - #661298) … a delicious and enticing nose of red licorice, cherry and strawberry, followed by bright red fruit in the mouth and fine tannins. There is also that telltale earthiness that seems to be ever-present in good quality Pinot (but just because it’s earthy doesn’t mean it’s good – a little bit of a catch-22 here when it comes to the Heartbreak Grape).

So what is the rest of the world doing with Pinot Noir? First, we check in with New Zealand: Shepherds Ridge Vineyard 2004 Pinot Noir ($24.95 - #586099) – the nose has that telltale earth along with red fruit and cinnamon, the palate is more friendly with strawberry, raspberry fruit and a touch of vanilla from the wood … the lengthy finish ends this one off on a high note. Hotter climates don’t usually do Pinot justice, because it’s a cool climate loving grape; hot climates tend to tone down the earthy and pump up the fruity aspect … California Pinot, like the Kenwood 2005 Pinot Noir ($20.95 - #943225) is plumy and red fruit dominated with some mild earthiness and cedar mixed in for good measure. Good acidity and a hint of tannin round this one off nicely. Who woulda thunk Chile would jump on the Pinot bandwagon with any kind of success; well they have and the nose and taste are just what you’d expect from this hot climate. Cono Sur 2006 Vision Single Vineyard Pinot Noir ($15.95 - #689992) is a jump up in both price and quality from the general list version (though the Cono Sur 2006 Pinot Noir is delicious and great value at $10.10). Cherries and strawberries greet the nose … red fruit and beets in the mouth, smooth and smoky going down. The Bio Bio Valley in Chile has one of the coolest climates in the country, therefore the Pinots are more what you’d expect from classic Pinot at a fraction the price: Porta 2005 Select Reserve Pinot Noir ($15.95 - #38836) has a red fruit and rhubarb nose that conceals those telltale earthy tones, but they’re there. The palate is strawberry and cranberry with an easy-drinking, no-nonsense style … quite tasty and good value.

Austria (Mini-Release) … Austria is a side-feature this release with a total of seven new wines filling the Austrian void on the shelves. In my opinion only two of those wines do the country proud. Dr. Unger 2005 Gruner Veltliner Oberfeld Classic ($19.95 - #951756), a little more expensive than the other Gruner in the release, but if you’re gonna drink Gruner best make it good. Pear aromas dominate the nose, a sweet pear flavour mid-palate and very dry finish. We’ll go from one extreme to the other, Lenz Moser 2004 Prestige Trockenbeernauslese ($19.95 - #729657 – 375ml) is a stunning sweetie: peach, apple, petrol, apricot and sweet maple syrup on the nose with a taste of honeyed apricots and papaya … Prost!

Italy (Sparkling) … I just can’t stay away from those Astis, they’re just so darn good and tasty. Gancia 2005 Modonovo Asti ($15.95 - #46581) a nose of peachy Muscat grapeyness and a peach ginger ale taste; low alcohol (9%) is a trademark of this wine and so is the pleasant finish.

California (White) … High alcohol is back with a vengeance in both reds and whites. Last release it was a 15.5% red, this release check out the 14.3% in the St. Francis 2005 Chardonnay ($22.95 - #317131) – banana, peach and mango are there on the nose with tropical fruit and a touch of oak on the palate … the alcohol is hardly noticeable on either the nose or taste, so watch out.

California (Red) … Speaking of watching out, the Duckhorn Vineyards 2005 Decoy ($41.95 - #41343) is mucho pesos, but yummy. Black cherry, chocolate and pepper aromas give way to sweet red fruit, vanilla and chocolate in the mouth. Fans of Zinfandel are gonna love Zig Zag Zin 2004 ($19.95 - #39982) with its rum, plum and cherry cola nose; plumy, jammy with hints of strawberry and a cola-like finish … crowd pleasing and very enjoyable.

Argentina (White) … Argentinean wine is cheap, excuse me, inexpensive, and worth it; they are turning themselves into a value-region for both reds and whites. This Lurton 2006 Chardonnay Reserva ($13.95 - #591743) has soft butter and tropical nuances on the nose, mango, pineapple rind and some butter in the mouth – quite delicious and well worth the price.

Argentina (Red) … As mentioned, there are plenty of value wines coming out of Argentina, you might not feel that $19.95 is a value-priced wine, but considering the Kaiken 2005 Ultra Malbec (#50849) can sit around in the cellar for the next 5-7 years - by 2012 this wine is gonna look like a steal. Woody, oaky, coffee, licorice and black fruit are all in the nose; while black fruit, black licorice and a mouth-drying tannin backbone hold this wine up for the long haul.

Chile (Red) … These days I see the prices of Chilean wine starting to run the price gamut – some bottles are excellent value (see the Pinot Noir from Porta in this report) while others are tasty but pricey. Gran Araucano 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32.95 - #675579) falls into the latter category. Lush chocolate and sweet red fruit smoothness with vanilla and cinnamon undertones – and there’s some sweet cherries hiding in there too.

New Zealand (White) … Tired of Sauvignon Blanc yet? Some folks are starting to feel that way, but with the racy, zingy, grapefruit and lemon freshness of this Matua Shingle Peak 2006 Sauvignon Blanc ($17.95 - #32854) with it’s hit of fresh mowed lawn and a taste of pink grapefruit, hay and grass – this is perfect savvy b. at an affordable price … the long lemony finish also helps.Germany (White) … Here’s something special for you aged Riesling fans – a Riesling you don’t have to sit on to get those great petrol aromas and flavours because Schloss Schonborn has sat on it for you. Their 1997 Riesling Spatlese ($23.95 - #43349) is heavy on the petrol aromas; in the mouth it’s an absolute taste treat with apples, peaches, honey, petrol, hints of floral, good sweetness and an incredible length.

Australia (Red) … Australia is always good for a couple of reds to recommend in each release. This time it’s the Pretty Sally Estate 2004 Shiraz ($29.95 - #37176) with its full-on white pepper nose and its strawberry, chocolate and sprinkling of white pepper flavours … interesting. But for my money ($25.95 of it at least) Torbreck 2005 Woodcutter’s Shiraz (#927533) is a real winner worth picking up. One of my favourites from last year, winemaker David Powell ups the ante with his 2005 version. The nose is blueberry, blackberry, sweet cherry and pepper. The mouth is just as expressive with cherry, licorice, strawberry and spice. The finish is lengthy and full of black cherries, a keeper for another 5 years at least. And with Parker doling out the 90’s to this winery like a sailor on shore leave looking for a good time gal you know it’s gonna fly off the shelves, so get in line early.

France (Red) … The Rhone brings us another delicious wine, this one made from 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Les Vins de Vienne Visan la Tine 2005 ($26.95 - #33837) – a seriously sweet red fruit smelling nose leads to flavours of cherries and plums with good acidity and drying tannins in the finish.

Italy (Red) … I’m a big fan of Valpolicella – all kinds of Valpolicella. And Valpol comes in three basic levels as far as I am concerned: beginner (Valpolicella); intermediate (Ripasso) and advanced (Amarone) … this release features an intermediate and advanced expression of this wine. Luigi Righetti Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005 ($17.95 - #575787) a nose of sweet fruit and spice leads to a more complex palate with cinnamon, black fruit, peppers, raisinniness, spiciness, some oak and fine tannins. A wine that should hold for the next few years. The advanced candidate is the Speri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003 ($62.95 - #38950) – a bruiser of a wine (alcohol 15%) … a deep nose of cherry, raisin, brown sugar, raspberry syrup and blueberry … the palate follows suit along with rum and raisin nuances.

Portugal (Red) … For $18.95 you can pick up Sogrape Callabriga Vinho Tinto 2004 (#43635) a delicious wine brimming with white pepper, blueberry, spice, vanilla, cola, black and red fruit … a little stewed fruit on the palate joins all the above – smooth, yet with good acidity and tannins to keep it drinking well for another few years.

Spain (Red) … Our final stop on our tour of the world of wine is Spain. Torrederos Tinto Crianza 2001 ($18.95 - #40808) has plums, blackberries, white pepper, licorice, spice and nutmeg. The finish is smooth and elegant with a bit of chocolate and tannin. A buck less and a few flavours short, but still nice, is the Valle de Salinas Crianza ($17.95 - #664763) – currants and black fruit make up the majority of the nose; ripe strawberry, oak and spice dominate the palate; a good tannin structure finishes it off.