Saturday March 14, 2009 - Vintages Release

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With St. Patrick’s Day approaching the LCBO parades out the Whiskeys. In all the years I’ve enjoyed alcoholic beverages I have never been fond of whiskey – and this year is no exception … so if you’re looking for whiskey reviews best go elsewhere, I’m not your guy. Check back next year, maybe I’ll have acquired the taste by then, not likely but you never know.

The other focus is Ontario whites … I’m glad to see the LCBO embracing their province, I just wish they would do it more often, and learn to stock shelves properly, but that’s a different topic for another day. Oh, and there is a tiny Kosher release, I have to admit I make your choice even tinier – Kosher wines have never been known for their value and good taste - at the same time is almost unheard of.

Full Ontario reviews can be found on my website (www.ontariowinereview.com) - the rest can be fond right here – starting with the focuses: Ontario, Kosher and then the rest of the world in alphabetical order.

You’ll notice I have gone to a stars rating system at the end of each review. Top score for an outstanding wine is 5-stars, followed by excellent (4.5), very good (4), good (3.5) and average (3). As always I am looking for good values and I’m not afraid to give or take away a half mark for it.

Ontario Whites …
Cave Spring 2007 Estate Riesling ($17.95 - #0286377) - Weekly Wine Note 03/10/09
Colio 2006 CEV Sauvignon Blanc ($15.95 - #0500462)
Daniel Lenko 2006 Unoaked Chardonnay ($19.95 - #0091173)
Featherstone 2007 Old Vines Riesling ($18.95 - #0064584)
Fielding Estate 2006 Dry Riesling ($16.00 - #0090993)
Hillebrand 2007 Trius White ($18.95 - #0054957)
Jackson-Triggs 2007 Proprietors’ Grand Reserve White Meritage ($24.95 - #0109371) – Weekly Wine Note 03/17/2009
Kacaba Vineyards 2006 Horizon Ridge Sur Lie Chardonnay ($15.95 – 0116392)
Malivoire 2006 Chardonnay ($22.00 - #0573147)

Kosher …
Hold onto your kippas folks I might have found your Passover wine. Those looking to keep costs low and still have a decent glass of the Kosher stuff might want to look into the Beckett’s Flat range of Kosher wines called Five Stones. The 2008 Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon ($18.95 - #0108001) has a crisp start and a full finish with lime, grapefruit and plenty of other citrus notes. Smooth and refreshing (***1/2). Those looking for something red will want to try the 2007 Cabernet/Shiraz ($19.95 - #0058693) with blackberry and sweet spices (***1/2). Both wines are under twenty-bucks and will make sure Elijahu stops by for a visit, cause he too likes the good dry stuff over the sweet Mad Dog (Manechewitz).

Two Israeli reds that find the Kosher mark are also being released – but don’t expect to pay a value price for them: Ella Valley Vineyards Merlot 2004 ($43.95 - #0058891), with plum, blackberries, spice, herbs, chocolate and a nice fruit and spice finish; despite it’s price it still rates 4-and-a-half stars. While the Yarden 2004 Pinot Noir ($36.95 - #0060756) has big drying tannins with an earthy, strawberry/raspberry component – heavy on the dirt. (****)

Argentina – Red …
Caitec 2006 Pinot Noir ($15.95 - #0109025) – soft palate with strawberry, black cherry, spice and some cinnamon. (***1/2)

Australia – Red …
Elderton Ode to Lorraine 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot ($37.95 - #0976423) – plum, chocolate, spice, herbs, cherry, strawberry with a good plum-cinnamon finish. (****1/2)
Grant Burge 2006 Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon ($20.95 - #0937276) – elegant and easy drinking, lots of white pepper and blackberry. (****)
Wakefield 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon ($15.95 - #0744235) – if something can smell smooth this one does with a very pleasant blackberry smell and taste, good value. (****)
Water Wheel 2006 Shiraz ($18.95 - #0700815) – here’s another well priced wine; good fruit (black), good pepper (white and black) with a plum back up. (****)

Australia – White …
Richard Hamilton 2008 Almond Grove Chardonnay ($16.95 - #0741009) – slight hint of almond on the palate with vanilla, butter, toffee/butterscotch – juicy tree fruit and pineapple/tropical notes … all at an excellent price. (****1/2)

Chile - Red …
Mayu Reserva Carmenere 2005 ($17.95 - #0090035) – minty black fruit nose; smooth on the palate with blackberries, plum and hints of herbs. (****)
Tricyclo 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc ($15.95 - #0027474) – pleasant and nice, cherries, tobacco, chocolate with a plethora of other red berries and a touch of herbs. (****1/2)

Chile - White …
Kankura Fleurs Blanches Chardonnay 2007 ($12.95 - #0096297) – there’s a hint of sweetness on this Chardonnay, and it seems to mimic Sauvignon Blanc in the flavour with lots of citrus in the back with apple up front. (***1/2)

France – Red …
(Loire)
Laurent Mabileau St-Nicolas-de-Bourgeil 2006 ($15.95 - #0061192) – tasty, with tobacco and raspberry dominating; good cedar with herbs and spice. (****)
(Rhone)
Castel Oualou Cotes du Rhone 2007 ($13.95 - #0104893) cherry aromas and flavours, lots of plum and very, very good value. (****1/2)
Domaine de la Pequelette Cuvee Emile 2005 ($17.95 - #0104950) – licorice, plum and blackberry on the nose; chocolate on the palate with an amazing smoothness. (****)
(Southwest)
Chateau St Didier Parnac Prestige 2005 ($16.95 - #0303529) – another Cahors biggie here; spicy, black fruit, licorice, leather and spicy. Good price for a 10 year cellar dweller. (****1/2)

France – Sparkling …
(Champagne)
G.H. Martel & Co. Prestige Brut Champagne ($47.95 - #0087485) – pleasant and toasty with apple-y yeasty notes; there’s even a touch of sweetness on the finish. (****)
(Burgundy)
Bailly Lapierre Cremant de Bourgogne Reserve Brut ($19.95 - #0991562) – crisp, pleasant citrus and dry – there’s a bit of biting acidity too. Nice price for a good bubbly. (****)

France – White …
(Alsace)
Domaine Saint-Remy Vieilles Vignes Gewurztraminer 2007 ($19.95 - #0106872) – spicy orangey with a little oiliness on the spicy palate, there’s a hint of sweetness and a long finish. (****1/2)
Pierre Sparr 2006 Pinot Gris Reserve ($18.95 - #0983395) – this is a ready for spring wine with a great nose and good palate. (****)
(Loire)
Chateau de Tracy Mademoiselle de T Pouilly-Fume 2007 ($25.95 - #0106773) – great Sauvignon Blanc nose and the palate follows right along; nice lingering citrus/grapefruit finish makes this wine last an extra long time. (***1/2)

Italy - Red …
(Tuscany)
Santa Margherita 2006 Chianti Classico ($19.95 - #0091694) – pleasant and easy drinking with herbs, spice and dried red fruit. (****)

New Zealand – White …
Soljans Estate 2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($17.95 - #0091223) – this ones is typical Savvy B from New Zealand, but at a very affordable price, lots of citrus and gooseberry on both the nose and palate. (***1/2)

Portugal – White …
Varanda do Conde Alvarinho/Trajadura 2007 ($14.95 - #0966663) – crisp lemon/lime and a good mineral quality – there also seemed to be a little bit of banana chip in there. (***1/2)

Spain – Red …
Bodegas Ateca Atteca Old Vines 2006 ($22.95 - #0103473) – minty, plum and black fruit (mainly cherry) with a great smoothness on the palate. (****1/2)
Les Mines Priorat 2005 ($25.95 - #0103481) – rich with red and black fruit, robust and lush – plush in the mouth, dry with tons of spice. (****)

Grape Guy Top 3 … what I’ll be lining up for on March 14, 2009:
Castel Oualou Cotes du Rhone 2007 ($13.95 - #0104893) - France
Tricyclo 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc ($15.95 - #0027474) - Chile
Richard Hamilton 2008 Almond Grove Chardonnay ($16.95 - #0741009) – Australia

Happy Shopping.

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For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.ontariowinereview.com,
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Saturday February 28, 2009 - Vintages Release

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This week’s release will take us to the South of France: Midi and Provence, where there are quite a few wines that should be of interest, at good prices … so make sure you have a few dollars for these cellar additions. There is also a minor Sicilian release – some of these wines will make your palate an offer it can’t refuse.

Southern France …
There’s only one Southern France white wine featured in this entire release, good thing it’s worth a taste, Laurent Miquel Nord Sud Viognier 2007 ($17.95 - #0673236) a lovely melon, peach, citrus, pear and apple concoction in the mouth that has a nice mouthfeel and a medium-short finish.

From Midi comes the Abbaye de Sylva Plana la Closeraie 2005 ($19.95 - #0104737) with its nice cherry and blackberry flavours and a good seam of sweet oak. The Camplazens 2006 Syrah ($14.95 – 0104752) has great smoked meat qualities with herbs and spices encrusting the meat, its fairly light bodied in the mouth with a bit of pepper and easy tannins. The Cazes L’Excellence de Triniac 2005 ($16.95 – 0103689) has one of those great sniff-all-day cherry nose, ripe with plum and chocolate, blackberry and cassis and some sweet red licorice with great tannins on the finish. Domaines des Aires Hautes les Combelles 2005 ($13.95 – 0701706) is cheap as chips and yet delivers a wines that boasts yummy fruit, cinnamon and vanilla; this is one you can enjoy now or in a few years to come. Two more from Midi, Le Grand Penchant Rouge 2007 ($17.95 - #0061267) has chocolate, cherry, plum, blackberry and cassis. While the Terrasses de la Mouline Rouge 2007 ($13.95 - #0103648) is spicy with nice black fruit and tannins … an easy pairing with your favourite meat.

From Provence there is one wine of note, Caves Saint-Pierre Preference Cotes-du-Rhone 2007 ($14.95 – 0103622) a nice spice and herb quality, sweet black fruit with touches of licorice and sweet oak.

Sicily …
We start our time in Sicily with this Ajello Majus Grillo/Catarratto 2007 ($16.95 - #0670844), it’s crisp and refreshing with citrus, melon and peach. Or you can go for the Cusumano 2007 Insolia ($14.95 - #0606350) with its great pineapple notes on the palate – I found the nose not as forthcoming, but as we all know it’s what we taste that matters most. My one red selection is also by Ajello, Majus Nero D’Avola 2006 ($16.95 - #0100545), herbs and black fruit on the nose, the palate had good flavours and it’s just a whole lotta fun.

Argentina – Red …
Vina Cobos Felino Malbec 2007 ($19.95 – 0118067) – very nice black cherry, plum, chocolate and lots of fruit.

Australia – Red …
Elderton 2006 Friends Vineyard Series Cabernet Sauvignon ($18.95 - #0595389) – sweet nose, sweet fruit and a good peppery finish.
Elderton 2006 Friends Vineyard Series Shiraz ($18.95 - #0660480) – here’s one to share with – well, just read the label to figure out that one: vanilla, blackberries and a bit of spice … very nice … should makes friends all its own even if you don’t buy it.
Kilikanoon 2006 Covenant Shiraz ($49.95 - #0674747) – inky black colour, sweet blackberries and spice on the finish, which lingers for a good long while.
Mitolo 2007 Jester Cabernet Sauvignon ($22.95 - #0043224) – lovely sweet oak, sweet fruit, white pepper, milk chocolate and tasty; here there’s a big dollop of jamminess upfront.

Canada – Red …
(British Columbia)
Osoyoos-Larose 2005 Le Grand Vin ($44.95 - #0626325) – floral, blackberry, cassis, vanilla, cedar and a whole lot more … needs time to open up fully, say 3-4 years, and when it does it’s going to be gorgeous.

Chile - Red …
Gracia de Chile 2007 Reserva Superiore Pinot Noir ($16.95 - #0090027) – a sour cherry nose that follows on the palate along with ripe tannins and woodsy-earthy notes.

Chile - White …
Casa Lapostolle 2007 Chardonnay ($15.95 - #0396986) – lots of vanilla and white tree fruits (apples, pears, etc.), cellaring for 2-3 years could prove rewarding.
Leyda 2006 Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ($18.95 - #0099309) – there’s lovely grapefruit all over this one, with a fair bit of minerality also. Good acid and a lemon-melon rind finish makes this one very enjoyable.

Italy - Red …
(Tuscany)
Il Borro Rosso 2005 ($59.95 - #0661769) – this one’s big with spicy black fruit and herbs – needs time to sit to come into it’s own … it’s close but I’d still give it two years before I even thought about drinking it.
Rocco Delle Macie Chianti Reserva 2005 ($15.00 - #0111641) – very red berry with a variety of cherries dominating, succulent in the mouth with plenty of tannin bite – very nice.

Italy – Sparkling …
Villa Sandi Cuvee Prosecco di Valdobbiadene ($18.95 - #0738542) – a light, crisp bubbly with apple and lemon that’s very pleasant with just a bit of yeastiness on the palate.

Italy – White …
(Marche)
Marchetti Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2007 ($15.95 - #0104869) – not everyone likes a Verdicchio but this one has everything you should: tropical, melon, and orange all make a refreshing sipper for spring/summer.

New Zealand – Red …
Sileni Cellar Selection 2006 Pinot Noir ($15.00 - #0694901) – good price for a decent Pinot Noir, light cherry and cranberry greet the nose, same on the palate, along with sour cherry and a touch of vanilla.

Portugal – Red …
Quinta do Infantado Red 2006 ($23.95 - #0095158) – this one smells and looks like Port in the glass: cherry, plum, chocolate, cassis with a mixture of red and black fruit throughout. The taste does not disappoint. I’ve tried their Port and loved it, now I can recommend their table wine with the same fervor.

USA … Red …
(California)
Bridlewood 2004 Reserve Syrah ($27.95 - #0090084) – funny wine with a very inviting nose full of red fruit; the palate is just so-so, but then on the finish it does a complete 180 and does the hokey-pokey (it turns itself around) with sweet spice, pepper and lovely fruit that lingers a long time on the tongue.
Paul Dolan Vineyards 2006 Zinfandel ($21.95 - #0046342) – a light weight Zin, or at least that’s the impression it gives, nice vanilla, cola and cherry, along with touches of plum. I said light weight, but that’s because the 14.5% is well integrated so as not to be noticeable.
Seghesio 2006 Home Ranch Zinfndel ($46.95 - #0070391) – an absolute beauty with plum, cherry, chocolate, white pepper, red berries and a sweet mid-palate before it turns dry on the finish – a whopping 15.7% alcohol, but good intensity and integration makes the booze a background issue, that is, until it hits you tomorrow morning.

Sherries and Port …
They can’t call it Port anymore, because true Port can only come from Portugal – so this Angove’s 2005 Premium Vintage Fortified Shiraz ($18.95 - #0141697) can only be called a “fortified wine”, but it tastes like really good Port. Spicy, plumy, sweet cherries – for drinking now or lying down in the cellar for, say, 30-years.

Grape Guy Top 3 … what I’ll be lining up for on February 28, 2009:
Chateau de Fontenelles Cuvee Notre Dame 2005 ($16.95 – 0103689) - France
Angove’s 2005 Premium Vintage Fortified Shiraz ($18.95 - #0141697) - Australia
Quinta do Infantado Red 2006 ($23.95 - #0095158)– Portugal

Happy Shopping

To print this article click here for the PDF version.

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.ontariowinereview.com,
while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.