This release we’re heading to France, Burgundy to be exact, home of the heartbreak grape, Pinot Noir, and the king of whites, Chardonnay. Now Pinot from Burgundy is quite different from the California Pinot of Sideways. In France, it's rustic, more terroir-driven (earthy) and more robust; rather than the jammy, fruit-driven version of California – that’s the way I see it anyway. So before I end up alienating an entire class of wine drinkers with my broad generalizations let's move right ahead with a look at 6 Burgundian wines (one sparkling, two whites, three Reds) - then move on to the rest of this week's releases, where 21 others are reviewed. To see the Ontario wines of note click on the links of those specific wines – you will be directed to my website (www.ontariowinereview.com) for a full review … now, on with the Pinot:Burgundy ...I find it hard to get good value for Burgundy, prices are so out of whack with this Pinot craze, plus it's a tough grape to grow, they prove to be finickier than my cat . When I taste wines from Burgundy I’m always keeping an eye on the price I decide whether what's in the glass is worth the price I’m paying. Sure I can appreciate the $90.00+ bottles, but it's tough to enjoy them when you realize you may never be able to buy one. So below I'm looking for value, Pinots that we can all afford to drink, not just for the Robin Leach crowd. There's a sparkling Burgundy being released, the Dufouleur Pere et Fils Cremant de Bourgogne Brut 2004 ($19.95 - #47241), a terrific light sparkler teaming with pear and bruised apple nuances that ends with a creamy mouthfeel. A pile of white Burgundies are coming to market; my two selections are at opposite ends of the spectrum. My value pick is the Paul and Mallory Talmard Macon-Uchizy 2006 ($15.95 - #66639), with sweet aromas and a touch of perfume. The palate is an apple and pear dominated fruit salad with dashes and squirts of lemon coating the top. At the other end of the price range is this beauty from Paul Jacqueson Rully 2005 ($27.95 - #65045) -the nose suggests sweet over-ripe fruit, while the palate is very peach pit like, more interesting flavors also play around in the mouth. Tasty little sucker. My three Pinot choices range in price between 20 and 30 bucks - Chanson Pere & Fils Le Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($19.80 - #50575) is part of the Vintages Essential Collection - which means it's always available. A soft raspberry nose gives way to sour cherry, earth and light tannins in the mouth, it's very enjoyable, though it doesn't so much glide as it does skid over the tongue. Turns out the whole tasting room was crazy about a Mercury, the Chateau Philippe-Le-Hardi Mercurey 2005 ($21.95 - #66365). A simple nose of cherries and wood that doesn't play true to its smells when it hits the mouth ... red fruit dominates, while cherries seem to arrive late, on the finish where the wood also comes back. There's also the ($29.95 - #66431) that adds vanilla to the cherry-earthiness we've experienced above. In the mouth, you get major vanilla and sour cherry with a sprinkling of tannins that aren't as in your face. Allow me to add a fourth Pinot to the mix: Antonin Guyon Chorey-les-Beaune 2005Molliard Bourgogne Pinot Noir Tradition 2005 ($15.95 - #663899), a value priced Pinot that delivers sweet vanilla and cherry on the nose, sour cranberries and cherries in the mouth, there’s also a touch of woodsy tannins. It's definitely a beginners Pinot ... but the price is worth it. Okay, one more for those serious Pinot drinkers: Frederic Magnien Chambolle-Musgny Vieilles Vignes 2005 ($55.95 - #66480) - this one adds bacon flavors and more robust tannins to the mix (that's all I'll say ... but it is delicious - better be for that price).White Wines ...Ontario … Chateau des Charmes 2004 Paul Bosc Estate Chardonnay ($19.95 - #287268)Le Clos Jordanne 2005 Village Reserve Chardonnay ($25.00 - #33936)British Columbia … There are a few B.C. wines coming through the LCBO, the best of the whites comes from Mission Hill, with their Family Estate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($21.95 - #57430) ... not your typical Sauvignon Blanc, it's more tropical then citrus on the nose, with ripe pineapple and a touch of grapefruit in the mouth - the finish delves deep into the pineapple’s core. Australia … I enjoyed this Chardonnay immensely, and I thought the price was alright for what you got - Clarence Hill 2005 Chardonnay ($16.95 - #57679) with sweet apple all the way through in an easy drinking style. The Hanenhof 2006 Semillon ($18.95 - #64220) is also quite lovely with baby power and honeydew on the nose, unripe stone fruit in the mouth, a sweet middle and bracing finish. Wow!New Zealand … What's a release without at least one Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc hitting our shores. Babich Black Label 2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($19.95 - #9142) is pure New Zealand: grapefruit (read: citrus), cat’s pee and a whole whack of gooseberry - all ending with a very pleasant finish.Portugal … This wine should be part of the President's Choice Memories of Grapefruit collection: Varanda do Conde Alvarinho/Trajadura 2006 ($11.95 - #966663) - you'd swear they just squeezed a pink one into the bottle . Red wine …Ontario … Le Clos Jordanne 2005 Village Reserve Pinot Noir ($25.00 - #33894)British Columbia … Another from Mission Hill, this time it's the Family Estate Reserve 2005 Pinot Noir ($29.95 - #545012), cherry fruit and a touch of earth on the nose - the fruit follows through in the mouth with a gravelly-cinnamon finish. USA - California ... Zin fans should be more than happy with this release, quite a few are coming through The Board. This Rancho Zabaco 2004 Heritage Vines Zinfandel ($19.95 - #434605) has fabulous flavors of plum and sweet cherry-rum. The Rosenblum Appellation Series North Coast 2005 ($22.95 - #31773) is also delicious with its full-on plumminess, cherries, rum-and-raisin and other sweet fruits. Value priced Zin seekers would be happy with the Howling Wolf ($15.95 - #57356) ... not one of my official selections for this release, but it was very good and worth a mention. Merlot fans should enjoy the Tangley Oaks 2003 Merlot ($17.95 - #68155) with its sweet red fruit and plums both on the nose and in the palate ... all leading up to a fine tannin finish. Chile ... you can't go wrong with this Viu Manent 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva ($12.95 - #59196), good price in a cherry, red fruit, and mint (more on nose than taste) concoction.Australia ... delivers three tasty morsels: Kaesler 2005 Stonehorse Grenache / Shiraz / Mourvedre ($21.95 - #6551), this fifteen percent alcohol monster is loaded with rum, black cherry, sweet strawberries and raspberries and a tasty cherry smoothness going down. Plantagenet 2004 Omrah Shiraz ($16.95 - #21360), chocolate and blackberry, smooth with a touch of a medicinal quality that appears at first, but then ends Twizzler-smooth (like red licorice). Finally, from Oz, Wakefield 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.95 - #744235), a great bbq-friendly wine that's got herbs and juicy blackberries. New Zealand ... the perennial favorite, Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2006 ($24.95 - #590414) is back – mainly fruit oriented (as opposed to barrel oriented) with a touch of an earthy quality in the mouth. Good tannins ... this one's no rival for Burgundy, but it'll do. South Africa ... this blend of the three biggies: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot is all dark fruit with a dark, woodsy feel in the mouth; it’s surprisingly tasty, even with all that dark heft: Napier Red Medallion 2001 ($22.95 - #64212). France - Bordeaux ... Chateau la Gasparde 2005 ($14.95 - #708594) has a great fruit-driven nose and a touch of a tannin smell ... these fruits get deeper and darker when they hit the palate. Chateau Moulin de Lavaud 2003 ($25.95 - #65607) is a cellar-dweller for sure - rich cedar, red and black fruit along with some weighty-tannins ... I'd say you could wait three-to-five years plus on this one. France - Rhone ... for $15.95 this is a very enjoyable wine: Domaine de Vieille Ferme de L'Eoune Rasteau Cote du Rhone-Villages 2004 (#43141) - red fruit is very forward on the nose, the palate has a good apparent sweetness quality and then there's the fresh ripe strawberry finish. Yum!Spain ... this heavyweight is a blend of Marzuelo (40%), Syrah (40%) and Garnacha (20%) – grape content taken right from the back of the bottle. At 14.5% alcohol this is no wimp on the palate or up the nose. Rich, sweet blackberries, raspberries, chocolate, licorice, great mouthfeel - probably the nicest wine I tasted today - and all for the low price of $20.95: Can Blau Montsant 2006 (#67397) - wonderful. Dessert …
Ontario … Stratus 2006 Riesling Icewine ($38.95 - #56671)Other … Today's dessert comes to us from Hungary in the form of this Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos Red Label 2000 ($33.95 - #959031) ... the more puttonyos the higher the sweetness, and this one is loaded with it. Sweet dried fruit and wildflower honey on the nose, the taste is great, with apricots and dried peach flavors. It's got a smell-all-day and taste-all-night quality to it ... this stuff gives icewine and sweet Rieslings a run for their money. Take a chance on me …Here’s my ‘Take a Chance’ pick of this release … Zeyssolff Klevener de Heiligenstein 2005 ($17.95 - #65656) - a rarity and oddity from Alsace. A beautiful nose of spicy, floral perfume, which continues into the mouth where a touch of sweetness comes through. If you're a fan of Gewurztraminer this is an easy stretch. Happy shopping.
The LCBO has gone back to one feature this release, and it’s “Cab Home”. Now I am not sure if that means after drinking these wines you’ll need to take a cab home, or if they are advocating responsible social drinking – but I do get the distinct impression they want you to take as many of these cabernets home as possible … and I’ll help you pick out the ones you should be piling into that taxi with; so without further ado I’ll call you a cab …
Take the Cab-way home …
With the opening bars of that Supertramp song playing in my head (Take the Long Way Home) I’ll take the cue to segue into a little Breakfast in America and start our look at Cabs in California (which they can probably get in Texas “cause everone’s a millionaire” – okay I’ll stop this now). Kicking us off is the Dominus Estates Napanook 2004 ($39.95 - #63065 – this one’s got a beauty of a nose loaded with spices and white pepper; great fruit in the mouth that’s robust as well as silky. There are a couple of Rodney Strong Cabs coming to market, a 2004 and a 2003, and both around the same price. While the ’03 is mostly herb driven my money’s on the ’04 Rodney Strong Alden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ($39.80 - #599798) – it’s got the herbs but its also got the fruit, with nice tannins and a touch of vanilla along with nutmeg and cinnamon … a better buy as it is a whooping 5 cents cheaper.
Argentina kicks in a couple of Cabs to this release. There’s the Erel Bravo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($18.55 - #58081) - smooth mouthfeel, lush, beautiful and incredibly silky. But I think I’ll invest in the Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($13.95 – 677567) … don’t be fooled by its off-putting nose, the flavours more than make up for it: Blackberries, cassis, chocolate and a yummy finish. Staying in South America we move over to the value wine leader, Chile. I’m not picking the cheapest, nor am I taking the most expensive, but if you sit right in the middle with this Santa Rita Medalla Real 2005 Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon ($19.90 - #275594), you’d be doing just fine by your tastebuds and your wallet. A nose of eucalyptus, chocolate and dark fruit is followed in the mouth with cassis, dark fruit, chocolate, good weighty tannins (for the long haul) and nice balancing acidity round it all off nicely.
I know, surprise, surprise, Australia makes Cabs, of the 5 being brought to market this release only the Kaesler 2006 ($30.85 - #4200) delivers something special – dark as pitch but with tastes and flavours that’ll keep you dipping into the glass for more.
Bordeaux is known for their Cabs and Cab based blends … my Bordeaux of choice is the Chateau Lalande Les Moulins 2005 ($29.95 - #61036) – a black licorice dominated nose is followed up with more complexity in the mouth: dark fruit, chocolate and a smooth lush mouthfeel. Very enjoyable. But don’t let Bordeaux rule the roost completely, be sure to wander over to the Loire section for their 100% Cabernet Franc offering – Domaine Laurent Mabileau St. Nicolas-de-Bourgueil ($14.55 - #61192). First of all, it is the best Cab deal in the release – I thought at that price there must be something wrong with it, but no, it’s all red fruit dominated (both nose and taste) with subtle herbs and spices backing it up … great value and the one I’ll be lining up for on the 16th.
Wrapping up the Cab feature and staying in the Old World, you should check out the Tsantali Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (organic) - $17.55 - #61838 from Greece; another wine with that “organic” label attached but you could have fooled me, as I put it on my recommended list before seeing the label. Chocolate nose, good fruity flavours, firm tannins, very nice.
White Wines
Australia …
St. Hallett 2007 Semillon / Sauvignon Blanc ($14.90 - #57687) – now here’s a wine that makes absolutely no mention of its secret ingredient on the front label, yet without it this wine would be just another typical Aussie blend – the 68/21 blend is augmented by 11% Riesling, which gives it the added depth of sweet fruitiness, while still keeping an element of the zip and zing usually associated with Sem/Sauv blends.
Austria …
There’s a Gruner coming to town, and damn if it isn’t one of the better ones I’ve tried in a long time. Freie Weingartener Wachau Gruner Veltliner 2006 ($18.45 - #61127) – hints of minerality and citrus throughout the nose and mouth, ending with a lasting lime-dominated citrus finish.
Germany …
Riesling fans are limited this release to one, Prinz Salm Schloss Wallhausen Riesling Kabinett 2006 ($21.75 - #993766) from the Nahe region. There’s good sweetness here with citrus and talc thrown into the mix – very good with an elongated finish.
Italy …
From the country that started the Grigio craze comes one of their best: Alois Laegeder Riff Pinot Grigio 2006 ($14.95 - #66415) with its great fruit layered nose and flavours that show citrus, peach and pineapple all in the same glass.
Red Wines
USA – California …
One of my favourite drink now wines form the past few years, Glass Mountain 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($12.75 - #727511) re-emerges on LCBO shelves; it’s a red fruit beauty that has hints of red licorice and is simply terrific for its price point. Another fav is the Ironstone Vineyards 2005 Merlot ($14.75 - #704353) at a cheap and cheerful price … it’s Merlot form California – need I say more? Well if you insist: think red fruit and chocolate layers. Finally, there’s the Ridge 2005 Lytton Springs ($39.85 - #982413), a Zinfandel dominated blend – I liked it better than the Geyserville (also in this release) based on its sweet cherry, robust fruit, and touch of floral … but above all it’s the taste that’s a winner.
Australia …
Golfing and wine seem to go hand-in-hand, could it be the relaxing nature of the game or that you could slip a bottle into your “equipment bag” and take it with you out on the course? (Couldn’t very well see Tom Brady with a bottle in her hand muff). The Nick Faldo 2005 Selection Shiraz ($19.85 - #590448) is a fruit driven Aussie Shiraz – “peppery and pez-like (candied)” say my notes, great for sucking on in the back nine when nobody is watching, or the 19th hold when everybody it.
South Africa …
Speaking of Shiraz, I have quite the recommend from South Africa – Fairview 2005 Shiraz ($16.85 - #626358) – no stink, just pure delice. Nice fruit forward wine with a touch of white pepper on the finish … very much worth its price.
Franc – Rhone …
The Domaine de la Calline Saint-Jean Vacqueyras 2004 ($23.45 – 38661) at first seemed destined for a non-recommend, it’s nose was just too stinky, but then I tasted it and things brightened up. Marrying red and black fruit with licorice and cedar, and then there’s that lead pencil finish that notched it over into the “better tell them about it” category.
Italy – Puglia …
You may be aware that Italian Primitivo has been genetically linked to the Zinfandel grape of California, though I rarely taste the similarities, until now: Botter Arlo 2005 Primitivo Doppio Passo ($14.45 - #60780) – powerful and intense Zin-like character from the sweet plums and red fruit to its rum and cola mid-palate, this one is downright delicious; if you’re a Zin-fan you should pick yourself up at least one bottle, maybe three.
Italy – Sicily …
Time to pop the cork on this delicious red – Morgante Nero d’Avola 2005 ($15.25 - #40816) with it black fruit and chocolate nose … its lighter in the mouth than the nose gives it credit for, but its excellent for this year’s upcoming BBQ season.
Italy – Tuscany …
Complexity comes in the from of this Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico 2005 ($19.95 - #606541) – a great array of fruit, cedar, oak, herbs, you could probably spend all day picking out the individual flavours and smells – but why waste time doing that, drink up and enjoy and whatever you taste, you taste and whatever you smell, you smell … just be sure to blurt them out at random intervals.
Italy – Veneto …
Regular readers know I’m a fan of the Ripasso-style of Valpolicella and a recurring favourite is coming back to Vintages … Sa’Solin 2004 Ripasso della Valpolicella ($16.75 - #650713) – it’s good value in a wine you can drink now or hold for another 5 years. If you know the style you’ll wanna pick this one up; if you don’t, this is a good place to start.
Portugal …
Two reds from Portugal hit the shelves and both are excellent values. Quinta da Falorca Vinho Tinto 2006 ($16.55 - #67512) – candied red fruit nose, light on tannin, heavy on the smoothness … this is one of those wines that might turn your white-only friends to red. The Vale do Bomfim Reserve 2005 ($14.85 – 66944) is a bit of a chamelon – a sweet red berry dominated nose gives way to dark fruit in the mouth – very enjoyable nonetheless.
Spain …
My most recent love for value wines (mostly reds) comes through again. Bodegas Castano Hecula 2005 ($13.85 - #718999), from where else but Spain, is a virtual steal … the heavily wooded nose does not prepare you for the cedar, vanilla and black cherry that the mouth experiences … there are good tannins in this bottle, enough to see it lasting 3-5 years easily – so buy “a-fews” – a few for now, a few for later.
Take a Chance Wine of the Release …
Here’s a new little feature I’ll be putting into my Vintage reports when I find something off the beaten track, but worth a look: Croft Original Fine Pale Cream Sherry ($15.25 - #73452) … very interesting and not at all what I expected. The nose smells dry, but the palate revealed more tropical fruit nuances and was very refreshing with just the right amount of sweetness … I picked up candied almonds on the finish – very enjoyable and worth a taste, or two, or three …
Happy Shopping.
